Saturday, 1 March 2008

o full of optimism," said John Galliano, referring not just to the electric colors and bright prints in his Christian Dior show Monday, but to the era that inspired them.

In his jittery dance with Christian Dior, the designer has explored the full-skirted romance of the 1950s and the ball dress grandeur of the house's founder.

But from the first outfits of boxy jackets and coats in pink, orange or violet, with matching bag, shoes and high-crown hats, it was clear that Galliano had found another mine to plunder: the period after Dior's death in 1957, when the youthful energy and geometric shapes of the 1960s exploded in fashion

The big hair was the giveaway. Huge hair, with eyeliner so extended that it swooshed into the teased fullness, where giant earrings nestled. As the models walked gracefully past a tumbling waterfall, they had a faux ladylike look in their square fur jackets.

This was not one of Galliano's soaring, creative shows that took fashion on a wild ride. It was more a crafty way of embracing Dior, while putting color, print and, indeed, optimism into the collection.